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# 1

14-07-2011 03:48 PM
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So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 2

14-07-2011 03:51 PM
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So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 3

14-07-2011 04:14 PM
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|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 4

14-07-2011 04:45 PM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 5

14-07-2011 04:47 PM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 6

14-07-2011 05:05 PM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 7

14-07-2011 10:48 PM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
The IH dealer dad retired from kept D15Y and D21 plugs for the Farmalls.
Whenever the plugs started fouling out we would recommend switching over to
D21. The 2 Super A's here started fouling out plugs daily pulling tobacco
sleds. We switched to D21's and could run 3 days--they would be skipping bad
on the third day. We only had 3 barns so we wouldn't need them again till
the next week. We would put in a new set before Mon. came back around.
Eventually we overhauled the engines and it helped with the plug fouling
issues. My point in all this is that sometimes there is nothing "wrong" with
the plugs, the rest of the engine just might be tired.
John Hall
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 8

14-07-2011 11:43 PM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
The IH dealer dad retired from kept D15Y and D21 plugs for the Farmalls.
Whenever the plugs started fouling out we would recommend switching over to
D21. The 2 Super A's here started fouling out plugs daily pulling tobacco
sleds. We switched to D21's and could run 3 days--they would be skipping bad
on the third day. We only had 3 barns so we wouldn't need them again till
the next week. We would put in a new set before Mon. came back around.
Eventually we overhauled the engines and it helped with the plug fouling
issues. My point in all this is that sometimes there is nothing "wrong" with
the plugs, the rest of the engine just might be tired.
John Hall
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
I recently had a 6 cyl ford industrial that would barely run and the choke
would kill it immediately. The intake filter had a dirt dauber nest in it
and it dropped into the carburetor intake and really screwed up things. We
eventually had to pull the engine where it was to get the manifold off. It
was in a Bros Broom for highway sweeping...
Cecil in OKla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Wagner" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
>> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
>> look
>> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
>> after
>> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
>> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
>> short while ) .
>>
>> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi everyone,
>> >
>> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
>> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
>> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
>> > a
>> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
>> after
>> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>> >
>> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
>> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
>> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
>> now
>> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
>> the
>> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
>> > kills
>> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
>> > But
>> > as
>> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
>> > near.
>> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
>> is
>> > all the way in.
>> >
>> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
>> > unclear
>> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > AT mailing list
>> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
|
# 9

15-07-2011 12:04 AM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
The IH dealer dad retired from kept D15Y and D21 plugs for the Farmalls.
Whenever the plugs started fouling out we would recommend switching over to
D21. The 2 Super A's here started fouling out plugs daily pulling tobacco
sleds. We switched to D21's and could run 3 days--they would be skipping bad
on the third day. We only had 3 barns so we wouldn't need them again till
the next week. We would put in a new set before Mon. came back around.
Eventually we overhauled the engines and it helped with the plug fouling
issues. My point in all this is that sometimes there is nothing "wrong" with
the plugs, the rest of the engine just might be tired.
John Hall
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
I recently had a 6 cyl ford industrial that would barely run and the choke
would kill it immediately. The intake filter had a dirt dauber nest in it
and it dropped into the carburetor intake and really screwed up things. We
eventually had to pull the engine where it was to get the manifold off. It
was in a Bros Broom for highway sweeping...
Cecil in OKla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Wagner" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
>> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
>> look
>> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
>> after
>> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
>> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
>> short while ) .
>>
>> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi everyone,
>> >
>> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
>> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
>> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
>> > a
>> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
>> after
>> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>> >
>> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
>> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
>> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
>> now
>> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
>> the
>> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
>> > kills
>> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
>> > But
>> > as
>> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
>> > near.
>> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
>> is
>> > all the way in.
>> >
>> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
>> > unclear
>> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > AT mailing list
>> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Depending on the blockage , your motor could go from running perfect to just
barley running at full throttle with* NO power . *Sure sounds to me like
you have an exhaust problem .
Bo Hinch
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:45 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
> > Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
> look
> > for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> > after
> > a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> > clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> > short while ) .
> >
> > Bo Hinch in S/W La.
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
|
# 10

15-07-2011 02:31 AM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
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)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
The IH dealer dad retired from kept D15Y and D21 plugs for the Farmalls.
Whenever the plugs started fouling out we would recommend switching over to
D21. The 2 Super A's here started fouling out plugs daily pulling tobacco
sleds. We switched to D21's and could run 3 days--they would be skipping bad
on the third day. We only had 3 barns so we wouldn't need them again till
the next week. We would put in a new set before Mon. came back around.
Eventually we overhauled the engines and it helped with the plug fouling
issues. My point in all this is that sometimes there is nothing "wrong" with
the plugs, the rest of the engine just might be tired.
John Hall
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
I recently had a 6 cyl ford industrial that would barely run and the choke
would kill it immediately. The intake filter had a dirt dauber nest in it
and it dropped into the carburetor intake and really screwed up things. We
eventually had to pull the engine where it was to get the manifold off. It
was in a Bros Broom for highway sweeping...
Cecil in OKla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Wagner" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
>> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
>> look
>> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
>> after
>> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
>> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
>> short while ) .
>>
>> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi everyone,
>> >
>> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
>> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
>> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
>> > a
>> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
>> after
>> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>> >
>> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
>> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
>> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
>> now
>> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
>> the
>> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
>> > kills
>> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
>> > But
>> > as
>> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
>> > near.
>> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
>> is
>> > all the way in.
>> >
>> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
>> > unclear
>> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > AT mailing list
>> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Depending on the blockage , your motor could go from running perfect to just
barley running at full throttle with* NO power . *Sure sounds to me like
you have an exhaust problem .
Bo Hinch
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:45 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
> > Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
> look
> > for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> > after
> > a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> > clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> > short while ) .
> >
> > Bo Hinch in S/W La.
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
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)
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert <>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
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> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
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)
|
# 11

15-07-2011 02:43 AM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
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)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
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)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
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)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
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)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
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AT mailing list
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)
The IH dealer dad retired from kept D15Y and D21 plugs for the Farmalls.
Whenever the plugs started fouling out we would recommend switching over to
D21. The 2 Super A's here started fouling out plugs daily pulling tobacco
sleds. We switched to D21's and could run 3 days--they would be skipping bad
on the third day. We only had 3 barns so we wouldn't need them again till
the next week. We would put in a new set before Mon. came back around.
Eventually we overhauled the engines and it helped with the plug fouling
issues. My point in all this is that sometimes there is nothing "wrong" with
the plugs, the rest of the engine just might be tired.
John Hall
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AT mailing list
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)
I recently had a 6 cyl ford industrial that would barely run and the choke
would kill it immediately. The intake filter had a dirt dauber nest in it
and it dropped into the carburetor intake and really screwed up things. We
eventually had to pull the engine where it was to get the manifold off. It
was in a Bros Broom for highway sweeping...
Cecil in OKla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Wagner" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
>> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
>> look
>> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
>> after
>> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
>> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
>> short while ) .
>>
>> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi everyone,
>> >
>> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
>> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
>> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
>> > a
>> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
>> after
>> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>> >
>> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
>> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
>> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
>> now
>> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
>> the
>> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
>> > kills
>> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
>> > But
>> > as
>> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
>> > near.
>> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
>> is
>> > all the way in.
>> >
>> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
>> > unclear
>> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > AT mailing list
>> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Depending on the blockage , your motor could go from running perfect to just
barley running at full throttle with* NO power . *Sure sounds to me like
you have an exhaust problem .
Bo Hinch
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:45 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
> > Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
> look
> > for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> > after
> > a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> > clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> > short while ) .
> >
> > Bo Hinch in S/W La.
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert <>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
_______________________________________________
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)
Just curious, will D21's fit most tractors? I've got a JD 60 and an A-C WC.
Both could use help with starting.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:31 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Cc: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] More engine issues
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert
<>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it
> > > up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear
> > > down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an
> > > hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled
> > > again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It
> > > has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive
> > > it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the
> > > choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
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-----
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|
# 12

15-07-2011 02:57 AM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
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)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
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)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
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)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
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)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
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)
The IH dealer dad retired from kept D15Y and D21 plugs for the Farmalls.
Whenever the plugs started fouling out we would recommend switching over to
D21. The 2 Super A's here started fouling out plugs daily pulling tobacco
sleds. We switched to D21's and could run 3 days--they would be skipping bad
on the third day. We only had 3 barns so we wouldn't need them again till
the next week. We would put in a new set before Mon. came back around.
Eventually we overhauled the engines and it helped with the plug fouling
issues. My point in all this is that sometimes there is nothing "wrong" with
the plugs, the rest of the engine just might be tired.
John Hall
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)
I recently had a 6 cyl ford industrial that would barely run and the choke
would kill it immediately. The intake filter had a dirt dauber nest in it
and it dropped into the carburetor intake and really screwed up things. We
eventually had to pull the engine where it was to get the manifold off. It
was in a Bros Broom for highway sweeping...
Cecil in OKla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Wagner" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
>> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
>> look
>> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
>> after
>> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
>> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
>> short while ) .
>>
>> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi everyone,
>> >
>> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
>> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
>> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
>> > a
>> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
>> after
>> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>> >
>> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
>> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
>> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
>> now
>> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
>> the
>> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
>> > kills
>> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
>> > But
>> > as
>> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
>> > near.
>> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
>> is
>> > all the way in.
>> >
>> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
>> > unclear
>> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > AT mailing list
>> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Depending on the blockage , your motor could go from running perfect to just
barley running at full throttle with* NO power . *Sure sounds to me like
you have an exhaust problem .
Bo Hinch
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:45 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
> > Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
> look
> > for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> > after
> > a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> > clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> > short while ) .
> >
> > Bo Hinch in S/W La.
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert <>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Just curious, will D21's fit most tractors? I've got a JD 60 and an A-C WC.
Both could use help with starting.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:31 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Cc: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] More engine issues
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert
<>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it
> > > up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear
> > > down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an
> > > hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled
> > > again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It
> > > has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive
> > > it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the
> > > choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1516/3760 - Release Date: 07/12/11
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
I think it's 18 mm diameter threads, Dick.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Day" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>, "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <>
Cc: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:43:17 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] More engine issues
Just curious, will D21's fit most tractors? I've got a JD 60 and an A-C WC.
Both could use help with starting.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:31 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Cc: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] More engine issues
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert
<>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it
> > > up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear
> > > down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an
> > > hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled
> > > again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It
> > > has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive
> > > it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the
> > > choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1516/3760 - Release Date: 07/12/11
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
|
# 13

15-07-2011 03:35 AM
|
|
|
So if that statement is true, how can I make the engine run good warm? Lean
the mixture? The description fits this A exactly; it starts on half choke
but will die if you don't push it in immediately after it catches.
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Charlie V <> wrote:
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> This statement makes a lot of common sense and also explains why the
> old tractors could not run Kerosene until warmed up first on gasoline.
> Ditto for the semi-diesels such as the Farmall MD family.
>
> Charlie V.
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> > I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running
> to
> > town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon,
> and I
> > pulled up this quote:
> >
> > "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run
> good
> > hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> > that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the
> motor
> > runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> > chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much
> then
> > it misfires."
> >
> > I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this
> a
> > true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
> >
> >> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
> >>
> >> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> >> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
> you
> >> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
> >> >
> >> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> >> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> >> spark
> >> > plugs, and see what happens.
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Did I mention that I have 15 or 20 Farmall's that use these plugs?
Plus, I have many friends that bring their Farmall's to me when
something goes wrong, so 50 won't last forever for me. I would have
bought 100 if they had them. But I do understand your point.
On 7/14/2011 10:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ron, I started to say this in the other message and didn't. Me buying 50
> Campions D21's for $.25 each fits into a woman's pattern of buying. It s
> been said that a man will pay
> $2 for a $1 item if he needs it while a woman will pay $1 for a $2 item she
> doesn't need. But some times I find a bargain too good to pass up and blow
> my money. grins.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ronald L. Cook
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:48 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I am one on the other side. I would not have bothered to carry them out
> of the store. There is a reason for the close out sale.
>
> About 15-20 years ago I started to have troubles with spark plugs in my
> tractors. I was using Champion D-19 and D-21. At the same time I
> started having real problems with my Pratt& Whitney radial on the
> sprayer. 18 spark plugs at a time. I was using Champion massive
> electrode plugs, REM40E. I quit the Champions and problems left.
>
> I never could get Champions to run to my satisfaction in a Chevrolet of
> any sort. However, a good friend used nothing but Champions in his
> BB/fuel dragster. He had 5 gal buckets full of plugs with 1/4 mile on
> them! Free plugs 5 gallons at a time. I did use them, of course. :-)
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
> On 7/14/2011 6:13 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Good deal Dan, at that price I would have bought them all too, even if I
>> didn't need them!
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:10 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>>
>> I agree in most cases. And most work fine when they are first put in
>> the tractor. The buddy of mine with the 130 was in the business of
>> overhauling forklift engines for 35 years and he also said he wouldn't
>> have believed it if he hadn't seen it for himself. The first time it
>> happened to me I just thought it was a quirk but it seems to be a
>> consistent problem with other plugs. I went into Tractor Supply a few
>> months ago and they had about 50 D21's in their close out bin priced at
>> 25 cents each. I bought all of them. I still have about 15 or 20
>> Farmall tractors so I will use them all.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 1:41 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 8:35 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Well a 21 is certainly a hot plug. Champion plugs in general have a bad
>>>> reputation among tractor guys. Like I said earlier, I've used them
>>>> with
>>>> no
>>>> problem..... that I knew of any way.
>>>> A lot of guys run them in boat engines because they are cadmium plated
>>>> and
>>>> don't rust so quickly in salt water environments. I've run them in
>>>> several
>>>> boat engines.
>>>> Still a lot of guys say they misfire.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> To me a spark plug is a spark plug. Never seen any difference in brands.
>>> I'll buy whatever is available as they all seem to do the job.
>>>
>>> Ralph in Sask.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust after
a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
short while ) .
Bo Hinch in S/W La.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and after
> I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>
> Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has now
> no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it, the
> engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> as
> soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke is
> all the way in.
>
> I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> unclear
> as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>
> Ben Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I just
cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would look
> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> after
> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> short while ) .
>
> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down a
> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> after
> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> >
> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> now
> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> the
> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly kills
> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble. But
> > as
> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is near.
> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> is
> > all the way in.
> >
> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
started and up to temp.
I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
that?
Charlie V.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:40 AM, charlie hill
<> wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
>
> I'll let you know what happens; it'll be later tonight since I'm running to
> town this afternoon. I was looking up my problem yesterday afternoon, and I
> pulled up this quote:
>
> "A motor that runs good cold [ without the choke ] is not going to run good
> hot. A cold motor needs lots of gas droplets in the combustion chamber so
> that the individual gas droplets burn somewhat consecutively and the motor
> runs somewhat smoothly. Once the motor gets hot the gas in the combustion
> chamber flashes to vapor and burns very well unless you have too much then
> it misfires."
>
> I haven't heard anything like this before mentioning the choke. Is this a
> true statement? I can't find much else backing it up.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
>> Good luck, let us know how it works out. I will be interested to hear.
>>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:12 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> > Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
>> > plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like
>> > you
>> > said, it's cheap enough to try.
>> >
>> > I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
>> > recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
>> spark
>> > plugs, and see what happens.
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
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)
Yep!
I would sure like to have a '30 or '31 pickup today. Around these parts
they got thrown away in the '60s. I am still using 30 year old vehicles
in regular service. What's wrong with this picture?
Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/14/2011 10:47 AM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben that is more or less true. That's why you have a choke. You need a
> rich mixture for cold starts and then a leaner mixture to run. The idea is
> to get the mix right for normal operation and use the choke to get it
> started and up to temp.
>
> I once owned a 1930 Model A ford pickup. The choke was on the far
> right side of the cab, just ahead of the passenger door as the carb
> was on the right side of the engine. The cab was narrow enough to
> allow the choke to be reached by the driver. (that was a good setup if
> you were taking your girlfriend for a ride) The choke had a round knob
> on the end about the size of a quarter dollar. Aside from pulling the
> choke for starting, it could also be rotated counter-clockwise for a
> richer mixture during warm up so it was actually a choke rod plus a
> mixture adjustment screw. Anyone else antique enough to remember
> that?
>
> Charlie V.
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
The IH dealer dad retired from kept D15Y and D21 plugs for the Farmalls.
Whenever the plugs started fouling out we would recommend switching over to
D21. The 2 Super A's here started fouling out plugs daily pulling tobacco
sleds. We switched to D21's and could run 3 days--they would be skipping bad
on the third day. We only had 3 barns so we wouldn't need them again till
the next week. We would put in a new set before Mon. came back around.
Eventually we overhauled the engines and it helped with the plug fouling
issues. My point in all this is that sometimes there is nothing "wrong" with
the plugs, the rest of the engine just might be tired.
John Hall
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
I recently had a 6 cyl ford industrial that would barely run and the choke
would kill it immediately. The intake filter had a dirt dauber nest in it
and it dropped into the carburetor intake and really screwed up things. We
eventually had to pull the engine where it was to get the manifold off. It
was in a Bros Broom for highway sweeping...
Cecil in OKla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Wagner" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] More engine issues
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
>> Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
>> look
>> for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
>> after
>> a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
>> clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
>> short while ) .
>>
>> Bo Hinch in S/W La.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi everyone,
>> >
>> > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
>> > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
>> > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
>> > a
>> > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
>> after
>> > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
>> >
>> > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
>> > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
>> > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
>> now
>> > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
>> the
>> > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
>> > kills
>> > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
>> > But
>> > as
>> > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
>> > near.
>> > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
>> is
>> > all the way in.
>> >
>> > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
>> > unclear
>> > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
>> >
>> > Ben Wagner
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > AT mailing list
>> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Depending on the blockage , your motor could go from running perfect to just
barley running at full throttle with* NO power . *Sure sounds to me like
you have an exhaust problem .
Bo Hinch
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 10:45 AM, Ben Wagner <> wrote:
> Good point! I don't think I've got insect nests in the muffler since I
> just
> cleaned it out and the tractor is garage kept, but I do have the exhaust
> lift mounted on the tractor. Perhaps that could restrict the exhaust.
>
> What are the symptoms of a tractor with restricted exhaust?
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Bo Hinch <> wrote:
>
> > Don't know where you live but in S/W Louisiana the FIRST thing I would
> look
> > for would be a mudd-dobber nest in the muffler restricting the exhaust
> > after
> > a short time of running , and when it quits running or is shut off , the
> > clump of dirt falls to the bottom and runs great after restarting ( for a
> > short while ) .
> >
> > Bo Hinch in S/W La.
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ben Wagner <>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert <>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
Just curious, will D21's fit most tractors? I've got a JD 60 and an A-C WC.
Both could use help with starting.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:31 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Cc: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] More engine issues
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert
<>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it
> > > up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear
> > > down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an
> > > hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled
> > > again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It
> > > has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive
> > > it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the
> > > choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1516/3760 - Release Date: 07/12/11
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
)
I think it's 18 mm diameter threads, Dick.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Day" <>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>, "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <>
Cc: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:43:17 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] More engine issues
Just curious, will D21's fit most tractors? I've got a JD 60 and an A-C WC.
Both could use help with starting.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:31 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Cc: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] More engine issues
The engine issues on my Farmall A have been solved! This evening I salute
Dan Glass for the tip on Champion spark plugs. I pulled the old Autolite
plugs, and installed four new D21. The tractor started and ran like it used
to do for nearly half an hour. Thanks Mr. Glass, and everyone else chiming
in with the same solution.
I also cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel line, so perhaps that helped
too. I'll keep an eye open for exhaust restriction, but the test tonight
seemed to conclusively prove that the plugs/carb was the problem.
I'm planning to drive this Farmall in the Bridgewater Lawn Party Steam and
Gas Parade on Saturday. Anybody else going to the Lawn Party?
Thanks for your help!
Ben Wagner
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Barney Van De Weert
<>wrote:
> I normally woudn't belive this stuff but I have had the same experince-
> plugs
> other that Champion caused performance problems.
> Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ben Wagner <>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <>
> Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list <>
> Sent: Thu, July 14, 2011 7:12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] More engine issues
>
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'll certainly try the D21 spark
> plugs, since I do have Autolite plugs in the tractor right now. Like you
> said, it's cheap enough to try.
>
> I was leaning towards a fuel line/carb issue, except that I have just
> recently rebuilt the carb. I may try a good cleaning today, with new
> spark
> plugs, and see what happens.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Dan Glass <> wrote:
>
> > I know this is kind of an odd thing, but I have had two farmall A's that
> > did the same thing. The solution in both cases were spark plugs other
> > than Champion D21's. I have friend whose Farmall 130 got stranded in
> > the field and he told me that it wouldn't pull its own weight in first
> > gear and he said he was going to have to overhaul the engine. I told
> > him about the Champion plugs and he said I was crazy. I told him I had
> > a set in the garage and I would install them just for grins and if it
> > didn't help then he hasn't lost anything. I put in the new set and
> > drove it back to the barn in third gear. He is a believer now. I
> > bought a "wore out" cub lowboy that wouldn't even pull itself up on the
> > trailer. When I was looking it over I noticed it had autolite plugs, I
> > pulled them out and put in the champion d21's and I have been using it
> > for about 12 years. Of course, its not the answer to everything but its
> > a cheap enough try to check it out.
> >
> > On 7/13/2011 4:52 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > My 1945 Farmall A has recently had a coat of paint, and I started it
> > > up
> > > again about a week ago. It was running great when I was using it this
> > > winter. The day I started it up, it stalled when I tried 1st gear
> > > down
> a
> > > hill. I assumed it was because I hadn't run it in about a month, and
> > after
> > > I ran it for a few minutes it seemed to work fine.
> > >
> > > Today, I had it out and was running it for almost a quarter of an
> > > hour.
> > > Everything was working fine, until I tried road gear. It stalled
> > > again
> > > going up a slight hill, and I could barely limp it back in 1st. It
> > > has
> > now
> > > no power. It runs fine with no load, but as soon as I try to drive
> > > it,
> > the
> > > engine skips and gasps. Pulling the choke out even slightly nearly
> kills
> > > it. I can cut off the engine, and start it back up with no trouble.
> But
> > as
> > > soon as I try to move the tractor, the engine acts like the end is
> near.
> > > I've got plenty of clean fuel in the tank, the gas is on, and the
> > > choke
> > is
> > > all the way in.
> > >
> > > I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask me to clarify anything
> > unclear
> > > as to the circumstances. Do you have any ideas?
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
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Hi Ben,
Glad you got your engine problems solved. I plan to be in the Bridgewater
parade on Saturday. I'll be driving my Fordson E27N. I just got home from
the pull tonight, they pulled around 150 tractors in 6 1/2 hours.
Nathan Good | |